Tswalu, the best Kalahari experience.

By Lauren Maker

I was recently given a gift to travel to the Kalahari and stay at Tswalu Private Game Reserve, one of my bucket-list destinations. 

Tswalu, The Motse, is a contemporary safari lodge situated in the heart of the red-sand and grassy Kalahari and is well known for its exceptional service and remarkable food. With endless landscapes and unbelievable game-viewing, it’s worth every moment.

Upon arrival, we were surprised by an electric thunderstorm, with dark clouds, pouring rain, and high humidity; absolutely awe-inspiring!  The thunderstorm lasted a maximum of ten minutes before it moved along, leaving us with a lovely fresh feeling, with all the smells of the bush enhanced, on a hot Kalahari afternoon. 

The Motse and the private Tarkuni Villa are assembled from organic materials and outfitted to the highest standards, expressing the warmth and hospitality of the people of the Kalahari. The room is spectacular, in every way possible!  The attention to detail is absolutely on point.  Designed and sited to make the best of Tswalu’s dramatic and expansive views, The Motse provides exclusivity, privacy, and free access to one of southern Africa’s last true wildernesses.

When people tell you that no two Tswalu experiences are the same, I can finally understand what they mean.  This magical experience is shaped around your own interests, and everything happens at your own pace.  The striking landscape as the sun rises above the Korannaberg mountains each morning, new opportunities to learn, play and explore come to life. From birds and insects to the smaller predators that are special to see, such as bat-eared foxes, Cape foxes, and the Kalahari kangaroo (spring hare). Our ranger Kyle and tracker Oom Ben were the best I have ever experienced.  And with such knowledge, Kyle is truly a walking encyclopedia. 

Kyle’s passion shines through and every tale he shares is full-bodied and tangible with first-hand experience.  His relationship with his tracker Oom Ben is truly special.  They both work hard to find special sightings for their guests.  Kyle taught me such interesting facts about why, how, and when animals, insects, and birds do things.  My best laugh was when he shared his story of while he washes dishes at home, he listens to bird sounds.  What was exciting to me, is he mimicked the noise of a bird, making the confused bird come back close to our vehicle so we could observe this bird through binoculars.  My best bird seen, and my first time, was a shaft-tailed whydah. For a twitcher like me, this bright reddish-orange bird against the rust-colored desert made my day!  We also saw wild dogs, a lioness with two cubs, cheetah, and many different antelopes. 

And then there was the morning with the meerkats.  I really adore meerkats, so this was a treat for me.  I lay on my belly with my camera and watched these curious little creatures come out of their burrows to catch the early morning sun.  We spent a wonderful length of time just watching them go about their daily routines.

The most welcomed part of my time in the Kalahari was that we hardly saw any other vehicles. It felt as if I was the only person on a game drive! If you are looking for a truly socially distanced safari, Tswalu certainly offers it.  Every Tswalu safari is a profound journey to the heart of an inspired conservation vision, against a landscape that is dreamlike in its passion and scale.

Dining at Tswalu was fine dining, but in an unpretentious way.  You are serviced with relaxed, happy smiles, and beautifully plated meals that taste – and look – delicious. Each course was mouth-watering full of flavour and the menu suited the area.   

I did get to see the new Klein Jan Restaurant opening in April 2021, and all I can say is that this experience will only enhance your stay at Twsalu two-fold! One cannot even imagine that this can be created in the middle of the Kalahari Desert. I got goosebumps when I walked into the restaurant; it must be one of the most creative designs I have ever seen, and it’s going to win many awards with Jan Hendrik’s magical touch and of course the Oppenheimer family!

Tswalu has everything; a spa, curio shop, a variety of activities on offer (such as walking safaris, horse riding and meeting the meerkats).  The lodge also has incredible staff who are so well trained with Covid-19 protocols, wear beautifully made masks and are a delight to interact with.  This gem in the Kalahari also has a clinic and school for the locals, and a remarkable conservation program for the endangered pangolin. Although we did not see one, I was so happy to know that they are so cared for and looked after! 

I recommend the Tswalu experience as a second-time-round safari, it is a place where you go to rest, rejuvenate and absorb the world around you.  It is a place where you can enjoy smaller and most beautiful sightings, but also be bowled away by its larger game. A Tswalu Kalahari safari is perfect for both families and honeymooners. I loved every single second of this journey and would highly recommend time in the Kalahari at Tswalu.